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  • Hi,

    We are thinking about getting a shock collar for our 17 month old Wheaten Terrier. We wish a means of correcting him when he chases the cat and jumps up on the counter (with his front two paws on top). Since these things happen in an instant, we were considering a shock collar because it is quick and you may do it remotely (i. e. by pushing a button). How do you feel about this? Are there any alternatives that could work just as well or better? Are there any good kinds that you recommend? Thank you so much. Please no rude answers!

    Have a great day!



    I do not trust shock collars. In my opinion, they are nothing I would placed on a child and therefore, nothing I would consider for my dog.

    I use a holistic method of training and follow Suzanne clothier' s ideas for the most part. It has given me a better understanding of my dogs and their language.

    Here is the link to her free articles:
    And the main one I suggest you read is:…

    It has to do with shock collars and definitely brought me to tears. After scanning this and a few other articles, I knew I had let my dogs down. A shock collar was something we had considered for the dane, but I am so thankful I read this before I got the collar.

    Your dog trust you and everything that happens to him is a reflection of your leadership. Letting a shock collar hurt him is not an excellent sign and he could very well decide you should not be his leader. It is the thought of hurting my dog deliberately that stopped me from using a good halti and I hope you will consider another way to take before resorting to a device meant to hurt another being.

    Add: When your dog chases the cat, you should part of between the two. Just so you know, your dog is really a terrier and has a prey drive so you may need to let them get used to each other. Try reintroduction.
    When a dog growls, it is a warning to avoid conflict. Growl at the dog when he shows he wants to chase, not when he shows interest, but when it gets to the point where he can not focus on anything else. (look for tail wag, ear flick, eye movement, etc when you say something similar to his name to see if he is paying attention). If he is willing to walk away but really wants to walk away backwards, let him, that is his compromise to work with you yet your agreement to respect his interest.
    My dog goes after my rabbit, but will not hurt it because as her leader, she knows I would tell her to leave my pack. (to a dog that is one of the worst things to happen, no dog wants to be on their own).
    Please reconsider using a shock collar on your dog. It should be a last resort thing and only resorted to when all other resources have been exhausted.

    Try tethering him to you in the house or setting up gates to set limits for him and when he respects the cat, immediately offer praise and rewards(treats, extended limits(move the gate back to a new doorway etc. )).

    Add: to sdograph… I disagree with the shock collar because I have felt one shock me. I did so not like it and would never force that on another living being. My lab mix bit me and after implementing the holistic training, she will go into a crate willingly and lay out to sleep(she has never done that in 11 years until the recent introduction of holistic training. ) She has stopped pulling on lead(I have as well since it does take two to tango), my dane has stopped pouncing and most of us walk together now instead of me being dragged down the street. I use dog behavior to treat dog behavior and the message is clear as to what I’d like. My dogs listen because they understand me.

    Another thing: Humans tend to suddenly become upset to a dogs perspective. If you’d like success be clear in your demands and stick to them. When your dog starts to join the counter, do a low growl. If your dog continues to jump on the counter, do a louder growl and keep progressing by going into a shallow snarl(wrinkled mouth), then louder growl with full snarl, if it last this long, a very dramatic snap should get the point across. Here is the article that explains the dramatic snap better than I can: the 9th paragraph explains the progression of snapping.


    One alternative is using some other form of " startle" discipline, like clapping the hands loudly or shaking a metal can filled with pebbles. Spraying with water is *not* advisable – you' re just making life very difficult for whoever bathes him!

    Once you have tried and failed with loud noises, progress to a collar. Keep a careful eye on the progress. Remove the collar, and try the loud noises again.

    I used a shock collar (as a last resort) for 3 days, then kept it on but without the batteries for a week. Worked great. Be very, very sure you are using the correct level for the dog' s weight.

    Of course, shock collars are not, in and of themselves, training. They are meant to *complement* training. Training a dog should never, ever be just pushing a button.

    Good luck: )


    Shock collars are painful and don' t replace good, positive training methods. You CAN teach your dog not to do the items you listed through positive reinforcement of good behaviors and use of a tool called a clicker.

    I have posted your dog instructor site below so you can locate a good trainer.
    Shock collars can produce varied results and sometimes negative responses in your pet. I am also posting site on positive dog training. I think if you spend the time to train your pet rather than shock it, you will have a happier, better adjusted dog that will be willing to do what you ask. It' s possible to eliminate bad behaviors by only rewarding the good and IGNORING the undesirable before dog gets the hang of your training goals.…
    WHY Ask the question if you intend to counter what everyone suggests? I f you are set on the shock collar, then get a shock collar. It' s inhumane and you asked for opinions. Since your opinion may be the only one that counts why ask?


    You are creating an impossible situation when you allow the cat to jump on the counter, but not the dog. If you want to train your dog not to join the counter after the cat, it would be easiest to help keep the cat off the counter too. If you believe that' s hard, just imagine being a terrorized cat.

    If you want to train your pet through aversion with a shock collar, I would recommend this:

    1) Get and install– the radio, wire and little white flags around a yard. If you shop around, you may get all that for around 0.

    2) Follow all the instructions to get your dog to respect the boundary shown by the white flags. Mishaps are very painful, and I am hoping your dog will only be shocked two or three times along the way. By all means, hold the collar and walk through the barrier to see what it is like. Usually do not hold anything fragile while you do this.

    3) Put a white flag on your kitchen counter. Make sure it stands up, and that the dog sees it. Wiggle the flag and say in your kindest voice, " Here it is. See it? "

    If your dog gets the message, you need to see the tail go down and the dog turn away. He will not jump on the counter.

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